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 A Rich History

Few wine aficionados visiting wineries in San Luis Obispo County's countryside realize that this region's wine heritage goes back 200 years. The first grapevines were planted by Franciscan padres to make wine for sacramental purposes, and it is recorded that the wines produced at the San Luis Obispo Mission earned the good padres higher revenues than any other mission producing wine in California.

"The padres planted anywhere from 1,000 to 1,200 vines, but their wines were low in tannic acid and could not be aged properly because of the lack of the proper white oak barrels," according to local historian, Dan Krieger, Ph.D. Cal Poly. " The padres used the grapes to make Brandy because it had greater value and it could be shipped successfully."

Nearly 100 years later, early settlers began producing wine commercially. Yet it is only in the past decade that San Luis Obispo's wine industry has really flourished. According to a report by San Francisco wine consultants Gomberg, Fredrikson and Associates, San Luis Obispo County vineyards increased 72 percent in the last ten years. That's one of the most dramatic increases of any wine region in America.

Today there seems no limit to the number of new vineyards being planted in this county. Vintners strive to produce ultra-premium wines from varietals best suited for this region's microclimates. The cool climate and marine sediment in the soils of Edna Valley earned the valley's wine grape growers a reputation for growing superior Chardonnays. Yet today, viticulturists have proven that the soils of the Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley are also ideally suited for growing Pinot Noir, Syrah, Grenache, and white Rhone varieties such as Roussanne and Viognier.

Although the Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande Valley and Paso Robles appellations developed independently, all within San Luis Obispo County, there were many time parallels as the early pioneers built the foundation for today's wine industry.


When the Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa in downtown San Luis Obispo was established in 1772, the padres, led by Father Junipero Serra, planted the county's first grapevines there. Professor Krieger explained that by the 1820's, Father Jose Sanchez was producing 400 barrels of wine a year. At the same time, Father Antonio Martinez was making 100 barrels annually from vineyards at the Dallidet Adobe, now Mitchell Park in San Luis Obispo.

The vineyard in San Luis Obispo was abandoned when Mexico secularized the missions. It was not until the 1860's when the mission was acquired by French immigrant Pierre Hippolyte Dallidet, that the grapevines were brought back to life. Soon, other farmers began commercial ventures with the grapes, shipping grapes, raisins and their first wines to San Francisco from Port San Luis.

The first vineyard in Arroyo Grande was planted near Lake Lopez. In 1879, homesteader Henry Ditmas and his wife Rosa planted Zinfandel and Muscat vines, imported from France and Spain. Years later the vineyard was abandoned, and the vines were saved only due to the overgrown native plants, which protected them from being eaten by wildlife. Just a few years later, the Paso Robles region had its first commercial winery established in 1882 by rancher Andrew York. York Mountain Winery is the oldest winery in continuous operation in this county.

The Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley regions did not get started commercially until 1968. County farm advisor Jack Foote planted several premium wine varieties in Edna Valley to determine whether or not they could be grown there. His success spurred the planting of many new vineyards soon afterward.

In 1973, Norman Goss began planting a vineyard on Orcutt road, founding Chamisal Vineyard. At nearly the same time, Jack Niven began planting Paragon Vineyard, yet neither of them knew of the others plans. In 1974, at the Ditmas ranch, the roots of the century-old-vines first planted there were still alive when ranchers Bill and Nancy Greenough bought the estate. Those three acres were brought back into production, adding to the premium Zinfandels that Saucelito Canyon winery is known for today.

Older wineries, such as the Edna Valley Vineyard have served to produce the premium wines that brought this cool climate recognition. Edna Valley Vineyard has been an institution of learning for many of our most talented local winemakers.

 


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